Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Updates from Aesthetics Conference Singapore Sept 2010

Just returned from a regional Aesthetics Conference in S'pore. Can't say that there have been major breakthroughs in new technologies but certainly there have been many advancements in improvement in quality of new products & the research to back up their claims. In addition, I've also reconfirmed what I already know to be true so here are a few myth-busting truths:

Melasma

1. Lasers & IPL are not good treatments for melasma. Results are only temporary (can be as short as 1 week) & it ALWAYS relapses within 8 weeks. In many cases, you get post-inflammatory pigmentation which makes your pigmentation look darker. Moreover, you need to do 10 sessions weekly for the 1st 10 weeks to lighten it - this costs RM5K-8K as an initial investment. Subsequently, you have to repeat the procedure at least 1x per month i.e. RM500-800 each month. These costs don't take into account the cost of creams which you have to use concurrently.

2. Treatment protocols are different for lighter & darker skin types, so please consult your doctor. Don't just buy some "miracle cream" from your friendly pirated DVD seller who persuades you to do so because her skin has whitened so much. Chances are her "miracle cream" contains high % hydroquinone & mercury. Don't begrudge your doctor the professional consultation fee because you'll end up paying multifold if things go wrong elsewhere.

3. There is still no miracle CURE for melasma. Whoever holds the cure will be the next multibillionaire on the Forbes list. The only time someone can guarantee you won't get melasma recurrence is when you're post-menopausal & not on HRT (hormone replacement therapy.

4. Everyone has a budget, so always start treatment with some good topical creams & sunblock - these form the foundation of a successful management of melasma. Other in-clinic treatments are add-ons.

ANTI-AGING - PRP V. STEM CELLS V. PLACENTA

There are so many things one can inject (or mesotherapy) into the face to rejuvenate the skin - from commercially manufactured products (you name it...vitamins C, lightening stuff, hyaluronic acid, commercially engineered growth factors, etc, etc) to your own plasma or even your own stem cells. How does one decide what's best? Ok, I've decided to sift it through & simplify it for everyone.

Firstly, I would skip the commercially manufactured stuff i.e. "ampoules". These "ampoules" are mostly from Taiwan or Korea or various parts of South East Asia. Frankly you never know what's inside & can never ascertain what they claim is true. Hopefully, it's not just plain water or something that you could develop an allergy to.

That leaves PRP or STEM CELLS or PLACENTA - preferred as all contain physiologically balanced natural levels of growth factors (some commercially available products containing growth factors at very elevated concentrations were discontinued because of their association with abnormal tissue growth patterns)

PRP = platelet rich plasma

Pros - growth factors derived from your own blood so you know it's 100% safe & zero risk of allergy
- cheaper because the product is your own blood, just have to pay for processing & injection fees. Cost RM3600 for 3 sessions. More expensive if add hyaluronic acid filler as well.

Cons - Some believe that if you're sick or very old, the platelets or stem cells that are there will be of poorer quality (compared to an embryonic source).

STEM CELLS
Stem cells can be from your own tissue (usually fat) or from an embryonic source.

Your own stem cells:
pros - Absolutely safe as it's from your own body
cons - have to do liposuction to get the fat tissue out. It's a small procedure but nevertheless another big needle stuck into your body.
- not cheap - costs about RM20K (or more, depending on lab) in total - inclusive of liposuction, transport, storage, reinjection.
- again, if you're biologically old or of poor health, the quality of stem cells might not be as good as embyronic source.

Enbryonic stem cells:
CHA Hospital (branches in Korea, Switzerland, Boston, Hollywood) have come up with Evercell - the ONLY approved embryonic stemcell available in the world currently.

pros - convenient source, no need to do liposuction
- cheaper than your own stem cells. Cost RM10K in total for 5 sessions done every fortnightly.
- best quality stem cells as it comes from 3 day old human embryos.
- it has been tested for toxicity & allergenic potential & the results have been good.
cons - not cheap compared to PRP but cheaper than harvesting one's own stem cells.

PLACENTA (human source)
pros - relatively cheap source available from Japan or Korea. cost RM2000 for 5 sessions.
- again convenient source as no need to do liposuction
cons - allergy to placenta possible


FILLER
What do you want in a filler?
- safe - non-toxic, non-inflammatory, no foreign body reaction, does not cause cancer
- effective - does not migrate, fells natural, long-lasting yet biodegradable
- approved & cost-effectfive

Look no further than hyaluronic acid. No other filler material has the safety record of hyaluronic acid. It is also affordable as it now comes in large volume syringes capping the cost of a "liquid facelift" at a maximum of RM3000. Ther eis also now superior MPT technology that makes it last 2-3 months longer than previous formulations.